When you first plop into a rice paddy off the bank, you feel like you’ll be sucked in. The mud squishes up between your toes and covers your ankle; water sloshes up your calves but your foot continues to sink. Then, suddenly it hits bottom, not hard exactly, but bouncy-firm. You stop worrying about the quagmire, and start schlurping your foot up and squishing it down a little further on. The mud oozes between your toes again. It’s slow going for a beginner, but fun. No one else at the Central Java field school was a beginner, of course. They had all grown up in the rice paddies and they had the squared-off feet of people who see shoes as an encumbrance. They were there to learn about bugs…
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